Doggy Skeet Instructions
1. Don’t play Doggy Skeet if your dog is injured or has physical limitations that could be aggravated from the motions involved with playing skeet.
See our videos (https://youtube.com/@doggyskeet) to understand what is involved with playing Skeet. But know that every dog has its capabilities and limitations – know your dog’s!
Get your dog’s veterinarian’s professional opinion before playing Skeet!
Confirm that skeet is an acceptable activity for you and your dog. The amount of energy required to play Skeet is very low if you want it to be… you can still play Skeet.
The amount of physical activity involved with successfully playing Skeet with a dog, or a cat is varied by you. You can play Skeet with your dog lying down, sitting up in bed, sitting in a chair or on your couch, standing up in a stationary position, walking slowly or fast, running slowly or fast…. you get the idea.
You “send” and your dog “receives” the Skeet. Skeet is not thrown like a stick or ball; it is sent to a target, with the right amount of emphasis of a flick of the wrist. If you are left-handed, when the Skeet is sent, it will start turning right; if you are right-handed, the Skeet will turn left. So, the sender must compensate by releasing it at an angle that works for you. I send Skeet so at the moment it leaves my hand, the angle of the Skeet is about the same as the hour hand of a clock pointing to 11:00. As the skeet rotation naturally turns left, or counter-clockwise, it becomes more horizontal, and with the right amount of light force, the Skeet will impact your intended target. Under and over-powering the Skeet when you send it will result in a missed target, as is the case when the angle of the Skeet when it leaves your hand.
Practice sending skeet with a bar stool, or chair, or couch. Focus on aim first, force second. My forearm rotates slightly clockwise as my wrist moves like when I am snapping my fingers, but instead of a snap, the Skeet is released from my fingers at 11:00, thereabouts. Exact details will vary with every sender/receiver of Skeet, and if you focus on the sending and the Skeet ending its flight path at your intended target – from there, you can get creative and learn new ways to send Skeet, like around corners and with the advantage of the wind (playing outdoors).
Consider forming a Doggy Skeet Club in your area, and become a freestyle sender!
2. Floor padding should be considered so your dog’s jumping impact is lessened. See here for ideas. We have a throw rug over our 8-foot by 8-foot area of 1” foam-rubber padding on top of our hardwood floor beneath. The rug protects the foam-rubber so it does not get damaged.
3. Cover any furniture you want to protect from your dog’s heightened-activity that could lead to damage of objects in the dog’s periphery of play, chasing and retrieving skeet and drooling along the way. We recommend “Fast Absorption Reusable Puppy Pads, Waterproof Pet Training Pads, Non-Slip” .
4. Move anything that could impede your dog’s ability to safely chase and retrieve skeet, and that could be damaged by this activity.
5. Doggy Skeet is thrown with the flick of the wrist, not unlike throwing a Frisbee. Right-handed throws will cause the skeet to fly to the left, once it leaves your hand. Accordingly, left-handed throws will cause the skeet to turn to the right, so compensate accordingly as you perfect your aim!
6. Develop your skeet game with your dog so you both benefit: anticipate where to throw the skeet in relation to your dog’s position, direction and his rate of speed. Soon, you and your dog will become a Doggy Skeet team that play an efficient game, and your dog gets an appropriate workout, and you get exercise too, if that is your objective. Minimally, you can sit or lie down and throw skeet in the same direction every time, and your dog knows what to expect. A healthy dog and dog owner should both be able to move about in the same room, yard or other play space and not get hurt. Any other combination of movement by you and your dog is completely within your ability as you get over the shallow learning curve associated with Doggy Skeet throwing. Have fun, and with practice, you’ll become so good at it that you will be playing it with your 2-legged friends!
7. Dog saliva can soak the skeet, but they will still fly, albeit, differently than new dry skeet – they will dry out.
8. The more your dog plays Doggy Skeet, the sooner the skeet will succumb to the forces of your dog’s mouth. The lifespan of each skeet is dependent upon the wear rate that will be unique to your dog(s). A kit of 50 skeet could last between one day and many months, based on how much skeet activity you and your dog involve yourselves in. Pick skeet up before your dog shreds them to pieces. Put skeet back in the box they came in once you’re finished throwing them – this will prevent your dog from seeing them, barking at them and perhaps knocking the skeet to the floor and chewing them up.
9. Have plenty of clean fresh water available for your dog! The more he catches skeet, and the greater the area of his tongue will determine how much of his saliva will absorb into the cardboard, which will make him thirsty; Never play skeet in the heat without having fresh water available for your dog, ever!
10. Don’t let strange dogs chew on your dog’s Doggy Skeet! Who knows what’s in their saliva?
Become a dealer of Doggy Skeet and buy Doggy Skeet at a huge discount!
Start a Doggy Skeet Club and compete with other dog owners in your area. You make up the rules!
Refer a dog owner and get free skeet. (For every 50 Skeet your lead buys, you get 10 Skeet for Free!
The more skeet you buy, the less expensive they become.
Call for a custom quote.